Backed by thousands of years of tradition, lunar gardening harnesses the power of the magnetic and gravitational impact of the Moon. The Earth is one big gravitational field influenced by celestial forces. Just as the Moon pulls the tides in the oceans, our ancestors believed the Moon also pulled subtle bodies of water, like moisture in the soil. Ancient cultures structured their world around the Moon as they watched it disappear and reappear in the night sky.

The Aztec Priests had a 260-day lunar calendar that they used for agricultural guidance. The survival of the Egyptians depended upon knowing when the Nile would flood, which provided irrigation for their crops. The Celtic Druids, Chinese, and many North American indigenous cultures relied on a 13-moon calendar to plant, forage, and harvest medicine and food.

It might sound like superstition, but there has been some modern-day research done on the topic. Maria Thun, a biodynamic farmer, has tested planting by the moon cycles for years and claims that it does improve planting yield. Due to the lack of scientific research regarding the direct effect of lunar phases on plant physiology, much of the evidence comes from documentation performed by farmers and scientists that have repeated Thun’s methods and found similar outcomes. Of course, a successful garden does not require following the phases of the moon, lunar gardening is thought to facilitate positive results.

Over the course of the 29.5 day lunar cycle, the moonlight goes through fluctuation. For half of its cycle, between the New and Full moon, the Moon grows in illumination creating the Waxing period. Then, from the Full Moon to the New Moon it begins to decrease in illumination, creating the Waning period.

Waxing Moon the light of the moon

The general rule of thumb is to plant your annual fruits, vegetables, and flowers that bear above-ground crops like peppers, melons, and corn during the waxing of the Moon. From the New Moon to the Full Moon the light grows and the gravitational pull is strong. This is when the soil releases, energy draws upward, and the Earth exhales.

Waning Moon The dark of the moon

The general rule of thumb is to plant root crops like carrots and potatoes, along with perennials and transplants, during the waning of the Moon. From the Full Moon to the New Moon the light and gravitational pull decrease. This is when the soil absorbs, energy draws down, and the Earth inhales.

Moon Sowing

The ancient Greeks believed the New Moon was a time of fertility and rebirth because the moon and sun were joined together in the same part of the sky.

When the moon is New, or dark, it exerts a strong gravitational pull on the earth, and tides are high.  The groundwater level beneath the soil is lifted the same way tides are lifted, and in this gravitational pull, the roots of plants experience a growth spurt. From the New Moon to the Full Moon sap flow increases in the above-ground parts of plants. These are the most suitable phases for sowing and transplanting annuals and biennials.

The Waxing Crescent phase will appear just a few days after the New Moon. This phase provides fertile and wet soil conditions. Moonlight is increasing and the gravitational pull is at its strongest drawing water up, which aids in germination.

•   Sow/Plant: Plant above-ground bearing annual crops that produce their seeds outside of the fruit like lettuce, broccoli, celery, and grains. It is also a good time to plant annual grasses and green manures. *This is the second-best phase to sow or transplant fruiting annuals.
•   Tend: Graft, apply liquid fertilizers, mow, and prune foliage (to encourage growth).

During the first quarter, the sun and moon are at a right angle to Earth, causing a lower gravitational pull. But the moonlight is strong, creating healthy leaf development. The leaves grow at a faster rate than the roots, which set down strong legs during the first week of the lunar cycle. This allows the plant to “reach to the sky” during the progression to the full moon. Plants that grow well during this time are those with larger leaves such as squash, melons, and beans.

During the Waxing Gibbous phase (First Quarter to the Full Moon):

•   Sow/Plant: Plant annuals that produce above-ground – fruiting plants with “inside seeds,” like tomatoes, beans, grains, flowers. It’s also a good time to sow annual grasses and green manures *This is the second-best phase to sow or transplant leafy annuals.
•   Tend: Graft, apply liquid fertilizers, mow and prune foliage (to encourage growth).

– Traditional Iroquois saying

The moon has peaked. On the night of a Full Moon, it is time to rest, celebrate, and meditate. It’s also a good time to pick medicinal herbs and plants.

From the Full Moon to the New Moon the sap flow in plants becomes more concentrated in the root area and gradually slows through the Waning period reducing germination and regrowth.

During the Waning Gibbous phase (Full Moon to the Last Quarter), the gravitation pull is high, creating more moisture in the soil. Plant roots experience another growth spurt, while leaf growth remains relatively static. In the Waning period this is the best phase for sowing and planting:

•   Sow/Plant: Plant below ground root plants like beets, carrots, onions, and potatoes. It is also a good time to plant perennials, fruiting trees, bulbs, and transplants because of the active root growth. Just like root vegetables, perennials’ root systems have the ability to store carbohydrates and nutrients which is vital to their longevity.
•   Tend: Harvest all crops, take cuttings, divide plants, prune dormant plants, apply solid fertilizers, transplant, mow, and prune foliage (to hinder growth).

As the moon goes dark and gravitation pull falls away, plants experience a time of balanced rest, where the rate of growth slows in both roots and leaves. The last quarter is considered a resting and maintenance period. It is a time to avoid planting and focus on improving the soil, by weeding, mulching, making compost, and so on. 

Some say it is best not to partake in any garden chores during the last few days of the Last Quarter. The time right before a New Moon signifies the death of the old before the start of the new. 

During the Waning Crescent phase (Last Quarter to the New Moon), moonlight has decreased along with gravitational pull:

•   Barren Phase: Avoid sowing seeds.
•   Tend: Harvest and store crops, apply solid fertilizers, transplant, destroy weeds, prune foliage and mow lawns (to hinder growth).

We have completed a full moon cycle and are starting anew. On the night of a New Moon, it’s time to rest and set new seeds of intention for the next cycle.

To get a better sense of the Moon’s movement, this video is a great visual:

Moon Phase Animation by Phil Heart

APOGEE

MICROMOON

Apogee Summer Mood

The Apogee is the point where the Moon’s orbit is the furthest from the Earth. Author Maria Thun described it as, “When the Moon recedes from the Earth in the course of its monthly cycle, the effect on plant growth can in some ways be compared with that time of year when the Earth is furthest away from the Sun, i.e. midsummer; the tendency in the plant-world is then to run to seed, whereas the growth forces decrease. Thus the effect of the Moon’s apogee on the seed plants can still be comparatively beneficial. For the sowing of leaf crops, however, this time is definitely unfavorable. Carrots sown during these days easily become woody. The only plant to react positively to being planted at apogee is the potato.”

Perigee Winter Mood

The Perigee is the point where the Moon’s orbit is the closest to the Earth. This has a much different effect. It invokes a winter mood because the Moon’s water element inhibits the Sun’s relationship with the Earth. Sown seeds might germinate poorly or the crop itself might be negatively affected due to too much water manifested in the upper plant. This can be positive for leafy crops that thrive with a surplus of water. According to European traditions, any work with soil or plants on the day of the Perigee should be avoided as the Moon’s influence is too strong at this time.

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Moon gardens are created for their healing and relaxing ambiance enjoyed during the evening hours. To create a full sensory experience, the garden should be a combination of plants that emit a sweet aroma, attract nocturnal pollinators (like moths and bats), and illuminate under the night sky. Characteristics of moon gardens include plants that bloom at night, produce white flowers, release heavenly scents, or have silvery foliage.

Moon gardens do best in open areas that have maximum exposure to the night sky. Oftentimes, they are created near a deck, patio, porch, or large window where the sights, sounds, and smells can be easily enjoyed. Incorporating light-colored stone materials or using light clay planters (great for beginners or those with small spaces) accentuates the area. Water features make wonderful additions because of their soothing sound and ability to reflect the moonlight.

The following list contains a range of enchanting plants perfect for a moon garden, followed by a bloom time cheat sheet and Paul Sédir’s list of botanicals ruled by the moon. There are really no rules in creating a moon garden! If you find yourself overwhelmed by all of the options and don’t know where to start, try Botanical Interest’s Moon Garden Collection.

Night Boomers

Tuberose

Agave amica

Native to Mexico, Tuberose is a night bloomer with a heavenly scent. The plant is associated with attraction, lust, and obsession and is primarily used as a perfume ingredient. It’s believed the Aztecs used it to flavor chocolate, but the safety of that traditional use is unverified.

EVENING PRIMROSE

Oenothera biennis

Evening Primrose is linked to youth, young love, and feminity. It may be a small blossom, but in the past, it was considered a symbol of safety and protection. The Celts believed placing it on their doorstep would attract fairies to bless their home. The perennial grows no more than 10cm high and can flower from December through to May blooming only at night.

White Flowers

Indian Peace Pipe

Nicotiana sylvestris

The Indian Peace Pipe Nicotiana is a tall plant that grows very fragrant flowers from the late afternoon into the evening. They are unusual flower clusters that create a dramatic look in the garden, especially under the moonlight. Attracts pollinators, especially butterflies and hummingbirds!

White Lace Orlaya

Orlaya grandiflora

White Lace Orlaya, also known as “Minoan Lace” because of its origins in Crete, are hardy, elegant, and low-maintenance. They once grew in abundance in vineyards, olive groves, and other dry and warm spots. Their long flowering period lasts from early summer until the first frosts arrive.

Night Phlox

Zaluzianskya capensis

Native to South Africa, Night Phlox is a dense green carpet during the day. As the sun goes down, burgundy buds unfurl into snowflake pinwheels. The fragrance is delicious, and it lingers, perfuming the entire garden.

White Bleeding Heart

Lamprocapnos spectabilis

Native to Asia and North America, the White Bleeding Heart is considered a symbol of purity and innocence. The bleeding heart flower can represent spurned or rejected love. It can also symbolize feeling compassion and love for everything in creation.

Sweet Autumn Clematis

Lamprocapnos spectabilis

The Sweet Autumn Clematis, native to Japan, symbolizes the beauty of ingenuity or the trait of artifice. This is likely related to its wonderful and clever ability to climb around places such as walls as well as trellises. During the blooming season, it is covered with dainty, white, star-shaped blossoms that emit a sweet vanilla scent.

Silvery Foliage

Silver Sage

Artemisia cana

Silver Sage is native to western and central North America. Although the flowers are scentless, the plant smells like sweet turpentine after it rains. Smudging with Artemisia plants is an ecological alternative to overharvested sage.

Perennials

•  Coneflower ‘White Swan’ (hardy zones 3 – 8)
•  Evening Primrose (hardy zones 4 – 8)
•  Mock Orange Shrub (hardy zones 4 – 8)
•  Sweet Autumn Clematis (hardy zones 5 – 9)
•  White Bleeding Heart (hardy zones 3 – 9)

Lunar Plants

According to Paul Sédir, a French esotericist and notable author, these plants are ruled by the moon and could also be incorporated into a moon garden. This list is from his Concise Guide to Magical Plants. The plants have strong lunar ties to dream-time, mystery, feminity, and/or the element water:

•  Poppy, common (Papaver rhoeas)
•  Purslane (Portulaca oleracea)
•  Rampion (Phyteuma spicatum)
•  Reed (Arundo donax)
•  Sandalwood, white (Santalum album)
•  Tobacco (Nicotiana)
•  Turnip (Brassica rapa var. rapa)
•  Vetch (Vicia)
•  Walnut (Juglans)
•  Watercress (Nasturtium officinale)

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Olla irrigation is a time, energy, and water-saving system for the garden that dates back thousands of years. Ollas were used during a time when watering meant hauling water in vessels. Anthropologists have been digging up unglazed clay pots in long-forgotten ancient garden sites, from China to South America. Ollas were a solution to many water issues in early civilization and they continue to be a beneficial irrigation system anyone can use.

Benefits of
Olla Irrigation

•  Water conservation. They save between 50%-70% in water use.
•  Inexpensive. You don’t need to buy a fancy irrigation system.
•  Time-saving. Because ollas seep water as needed you can go days before having to refill them. This means they are perfect for vacations!
•  Low-Tech. Again, no need for a fancy system and they are easy to use.
•  Environmentally-friendly. Ollas are made of clay.
•  Variety of sizes. Ollas can be used in the ground, raised beds, or even large pots because they come in all sorts of sizes.
•  Healthier plants. Roots get slow, even watering which results in a healthier, happier plant! Also, the risk of fungal issues on foliage is significantly reduced.
•  Prevents soil compaction. The roots get watered instead of the surface of the soil.
•  Reduced weed growth. The longer the surface of the soil stays dry the fewer weeds will develop.
•  Reusable. Ollas can be reused every year. If there is mineral build up they can be cleaned with a diluted 1:1 vinegar and water solution.

* In climates with deep freezes, ollas risk cracking in the winter. It’s best to remove them in the fall and store them in a dry place.

How Olla
Irrigation Works

The permeable walls of the olla allow for water to dissipate into the soil as needed. The pores of clay pots are so small that water does not freely flow out of the pot, but rather a suction force is created by soil moisture tension as well as plant roots. If the soil is dry, the water will be “pulled” out and released faster. If there is a saturating rainfall the water will remain in the olla until the surrounding soil dries. Therefore, olla irrigation is extremely water efficient and prevents excessive evaporation, overwatering, and runoff.

The roots of plants eventually grow toward and around the olla, allowing for even and consistent watering. This reduces the amount of stress they endure enabling them to live and produce longer. Watering this way promotes dense root growth which facilitates more efficient nutrient and water uptake.

Homemade Ollas
using Terracotta Pots

Original ollas were bulbous vessels with narrow necks, but unglazed terracotta pots will work just as well! This is a simple low-tech adaptation.

Step 1: Plug the Drainage Hole

Here are four ways you can plug the drainage hole of a terracotta pot. Starting with my number one recommendation, beeswax:

BEESWAX

Although a little time-consuming and messy, I would have to say that beeswax has been my most successful non-permanent way to plug the drainage holes in terracotta pots. It’s easy to remove causing no damage if you decide to revert the pot back to a planter. Not to mention it’s the most earth-friendly option. Make sure your pot is dry before pouring the beeswax.

NO-TOX PUTTY

This is a faster method. Use non-toxic putty to close the drainage hole. Apply a layer to the bottom and the inside. If you go this route, make sure the pot is dry before applying the putty.

PLUG / CORK

This is the quickest way to plug the hole. The trickiest part of this method is finding plugs or corks that are the right size.

CEMENT

For a permanent but foolproof method use cement. Create your own mixture with a cement kit and pour a 1/2″ layer into the bottom of the pot. I wanted the option to revert my pots back to planters so I did not go down this route, but I have seen this work great for others!

Step 2: Bury the Pot

Dig a hole and bury the pot up until you meet the beginning of the rim.

Step 3: Plant and Fill

Plant seeds or transplants 4-12″ from the pot. For the first few weeks after planting it’s best to hand-water the plants while the roots grow toward the water source. Once the plants are established you can rely entirely on the ollas to do their job.

Step 4: Cover the Pot

If you leave the pot uncovered it can become a breeding ground for mosquitos. On top of that, water will easily evaporate. Use a saucer that fits snug over the opening. You could attach an exterior knob to the center of the saucer if you’d like a handle to easily remove the lid.

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Applied since ancient times, Hügelkultur creates the richest and most fertile growing conditions. It is basically wood and organic matter that has been covered with soil and left alone to rot. Raised garden beds filled with Hügelkultur are loaded with organic material, nutrients, air pockets for roots, warm soil that prolongs growing seasons, and so much more!

The concept comes from the ancient Eastern European and Germanic peoples who mastered vertical gardening by using mounds made of decaying wood and plant debris. The same principles can be applied when filling modern-day raised garden beds. It’s an earth-friendly and cost-effective method. Most of the materials were gathered from our community recycling center that offers wood, mulch, finished compost, and other organic matter at no cost.

A mound of woodchip mulch at our local compost center.

Similar to a compost pile, the decaying biomass inside hügelbeds heats up and warms the soil.  This can extend the season by allowing earlier planting in the spring and longer growing in the fall. The image below by Paul Wheaton depicts a hügelkultur mound.

Image by Paul Wheaton via richsoil.com

Layer 1: Woodsy Materials

This layer is perfect for recycling tree waste. Incorporating logs, fallen branches, and twigs into a hügelbed is an efficient way to compost all that valuable wood. The woodsy layer will break down and release carbon, the main component of soil organic matter, which helps give soil its water-retention capacity, structure, and fertility.

CARDBOARD

Any cardboard that does not have a wax coating, shiny finish, tape (except brown paper tape with strings), or heavy print is considered clean and okay to use. After removing the tape and labels from cardboard it can be laid down to provide a compostable material for the garden that suppresses pesky weeds and grasses and develops a bumper crop of earthworms.

LOGS, BRANCHES, TWIGS, WOODCHIPS

Decomposing wood becomes soft, porous, and spongy. This spongy wood absorbs moisture that basically becomes a secret water reservoir.  Plants seek out moisture and sink their roots into these half-rotten logs. The rotting wood also hosts beneficial fungi, bacteria, insects, worms, and microbial growth that create nutrients plants can use. Avoid woods known to be rot-resistant like cedar or black locust. Also, avoid black walnut because it releases a chemical into the soil that is toxic to some plants.

You can inoculate wood with mushroom spores to add even further to your food yield.

Layer 2: Green Waste

During the first year of a hügelbed, the decaying wood will rob nitrogen from the soil.  The fresher the wood, the more nitrogen it will require as it breaks down. Eventually, it will put nitrogen back into the soil but in the meantime, a layer of green nitrogen-rich materials is needed. Instead of putting leaves and grass clippings in bags that are bound for the curb, fill them on top and around the wood layer to speed its decomposition process. Kitchen scraps like eggshells, coffee grounds, banana peels, or any food that you would add to your home compost can be added too.

Layer 3: Soil Mixture

TOPSOIL, COMPOST, AGED MANURE

The ideal mix for soil is 50% topsoil, 30% compost, and 20% aged manure. Topsoil is the top layer of any soil above the bedrock and is the most nutrient-rich layer of naturally occurring soil. Topsoil does contain organic matter but not as much as plants need. Compost contains nutrients that act as natural fertilizers. It’s great for improving soil structure, reducing compaction, and improving water retention while simultaneously improving drainage. Aged manure conditions and enriches the soil with nutrients and increases soil carbon, which is an important source of energy that makes nutrients available to plants.

SOIL AMENDMENTS

Amendments like coconut coir (aerates soil + retains moisture), worm castings (enriches soil + attracts worms), azomite (adds minerals + trace elements), and mycorrhizal fungi (feeds the roots of plants) are great additions too.

Layer 4: Plant

The garden bed is full and ready for all your wonderful seedlings! As stated previously, the first year of breakdown means the wood and fungi steal much of the nitrogen out of the surrounding environment. Planting crops that add nitrogen to the soil like legumes or species with minimal nitrogen requirements is advised unless there is plenty of green waste material on top of the woody layer. After the wood absorbs nitrogen it will start to break down and give nitrogen back in the process. The end result is a bed of nutrient-rich, fertile soil!

Layer 5: Mulch

Mulch is a top dressing or soil covering that protects soil, improves soil health, retains moisture, prevents evaporation, suppresses weeds, and adds additional organic material. There are a number of organic mulches including wood chips, straw, grass clippings, and shredded leaves. 

WOOD CHIPS

A common misconception is that fresh wood chips tie up nitrogen during their decomposition. While nitrogen depletion will be a temporary problem it will only be right at the soil surface (one reason wood chip mulches are efficient at suppressing seed germination). As woodchips break down, they slowly provide small amounts of nutrients and increase the organic matter of the soil. Check out Chipdrop for free woodchip mulch deliveries!

STRAW

Straw is one of the best mulch materials because it is clean, light, and breaks down relatively easily yet slow to decompose. It doesn’t tie up nitrogen or other soil amendments either. Be careful not to confuse straw with hay, which can contain seeds that can sprout weeds. Barley, wheat, and rice straws are great options.

GRASS CLIPPINGS & SHREDDED LEAVES

Using fresh grass clippings as mulch can add back up to 25% of the nutrients that growth removes from the soil. Shredded leaves will also help enrich the soil. Keep in mind, wet grass clippings and unshredded leaves can mat down blocking air and water from penetrating the ground.

RELATED POST: How to Build a Raised Garden Bed

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Raised garden beds allow a garden to be planted almost anywhere! The concept dates back to ancient cultures in 300 b.c. Pre-Hispanic cultures in South America from Columbia to Bolivia employed the raised bed concept waru waru to prevent erosion and improve irrigation. Other methods like hügelkultur have been used for thousands of years and also apply the concepts of raised bed gardening. In medieval times beds were edged with wattle fences. Fast forward 500 years, the Parisian market gardeners of the 18th Century built up their plots using horse manure that was abundant during a pre-motor vehicle city. Raised beds have always been a popular method of gardening because of their manageability.

RELATED POST: How to Fill a Raised Garden Bed Using the Hügelkulture Technique

UNTREATED WOOD

Pressure treated lumber is not any stronger than untreated lumber. While pressure treated lumber will resist the elements and rot better due to added chemical preservatives it comes with many concerns. Wood treated with CCA or chromated copper arsenate can leach arsenic, a very toxic compound. Plants growing in the garden bed could potentially take up the chemicals making it unsafe. Untreated wood is the safer, more environmentally friendly choice.

SOFTWOODS

Pine (southern yellow pine/common board), Douglas fir, spruce, and juniper. These softwoods are cost-effective options, but not resistant to rot. They will need to be repaired or replaced within 3-7 years depending on climate.

HARDWOODS

Cedar and redwood are the best choices of wood for garden beds. These are durable, naturally resistant to moisture, rot, and termites. They are known to last 10-20 years. Oak, cypress, teak, beech, hemlock, and walnut are other long-lasting hardwood options. Hardwoods are a long-term investment.

HEARTWOOD

For the best of the best choose the heartwood of the hardwoods mentioned. It’s the most durable and long-lasting lumbar. Although even more expensive, they could last over 20 years! Heartwood is the densest because it comes from the center of the tree. It’s the dead wood that doesn’t feature channels for xylem and phloem, making it more resistant to water and infestation compared to sapwood. 

NOT RECOMMENDED

•  Railroad ties. The wood is preserved by soaking it in creosote, which is composed of over 300 chemicals, many of them toxic and persistent in soil. Exposure to creosote has been shown to have adverse health effects.
•  Reclaimed wood. Only use reclaimed wood if you know the type and if it has been treated or not.

Dimensions

Supports

⋆ Stainless steel metal brackets are a good choice too. You can get straight brackets for the mid/quarter points and corner brackets for the intersections.

ANCHORS

To further the support of the garden bed you can create anchors and dig them into the ground. Alternatively, you could dig the entire bed a few inches into the ground. Personally, I don’t find anchors necessary.

Placement

Weeds & Critters

HARDWARE CLOTH

If you have underground critters like gophers, moles, and voles I would recommend stainless steel 1/4″ hardware fabric to keep them from burrowing into your bed. 1/4″ will keep critters out but still allow root systems to travel deeper.

Tools

SCREWS

Screws are what is going to hold the bed together, so it’s an important topic! When deciding what size screws to get the general rule of thumb is that the screw should enter at least half the thickness of the bottom material.

You’ll want to use exterior deck screws because they are made to endure the elements. Some exterior deck screws are not suitable for cedar or redwoods. Coated galvanized screws are susceptible to the tannic acids in these hardwoods.

Stainless steel screws are my #1 recommendation for garden beds because they are not only an excellent environmental choice but also an excellent economical choice. They can be used on any wood including cedar and redwood. The screws are not coated with toxic materials and do not produce toxic off-gas or leach when they are in the wood. Plus, stainless steel is naturally rust, tarnish, and corrosion-resistant.

⋆ Screws with star (torx) and square (robertson) drive recesses resist stripping better than Phillips-drive recesses.

When I built my three cedar compost structures I missed the fine print that the exterior screws I bought were not meant for cedar or redwood. I ended up having to replace 250 screws… learn from my mistake!

OTHER TOOLS

•  Power drill – you could also use a hammer and nails, but screws outperform nails because they have more tensile strength. Tensile strength refers to a material’s ability to resist breaking under pressure.
•  Miter saw (preferred) or circular saw – an alternative is having the lumber supplier cut the wood for you!
•  Clamps – to hold the wood together while screwing.
•  Saw Horses (or any flat surface)
•  Measuring & Marking Tools – t-square, measuring tape, and a pencil.
•  Staple Gun and SS Staples if you choose to add hardware and/or weed cloth.
•  Safety Goggles for protection.

Build a Low-Cost
Raised Cedar Wood Bed

Using cedar fencing and rough cedar to make a garden bed is actually less expensive than using pine! Cedar fencing is only 5/8″ thick but as long as the bed is supported this rot-resistant wood will last a long time. Rough cedar (used for the supports) is also a less expensive option because it is wood that hasn’t been planed.

Cedar fencing is 5.5″ wide and 6′ long with dog ears on one end. If you are not fond of the dog ears they can be removed by cutting an inch off, but I don’t mind them. Below, I am creating a 3’x6′ long bed that is 27.5″ tall using seventeen cedar fence boards and two 2″ 4×8′ rough cedar boards. I wanted something easy on the back so this bed is a little over 2′ tall. The shorter the bed, the fewer boards you will need to purchase.

Step by Step

1

Cut the Wood

To keep it simple I am working with the dimensions already available at the lumbar yard so I don’t need to make any cuts for the long sides. For the short sides, I am cutting five boards in half making them 3′ each. For the supports, I cut the rough cedar boards into pieces that are the height of the bed. In this case, each one is 27.5″ long – the exact height of five cedar fencing boards stacked on top of each other. Now I have six support beams. One for each corner and both midpoints.

2

Create the Sides

3

Create the Front & BACK

Now that the short sides are made stand them sideways across from each other and lay the long boards across. Because these fencing boards can be a bit wonky I flip and swap pieces until they align adequately before I secure them. Once they are aligned they can be secured with screws. Repeat this for the backside.

4

Affix the Midpoint Supports

To prevent bowing (especially because cedar fencing is only 5/8″ thick) add a support beam at the midpoint of the front and back (long sides).

5

Secure the Hardware Cloth

RELATED POST: How to Fill a Raised Garden Bed Using the Hügelkulture Technique

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