Backed by thousands of years of tradition, lunar gardening harnesses the power of the magnetic and gravitational impact of the Moon. The Earth is one big gravitational field influenced by celestial forces. Just as the Moon pulls the tides in the oceans, our ancestors believed the Moon also pulled subtle bodies of water, like moisture in the soil. Ancient cultures structured their world around the Moon as they watched it disappear and reappear in the night sky.

The Aztec Priests had a 260-day lunar calendar that they used for agricultural guidance. The survival of the Egyptians depended upon knowing when the Nile would flood, which provided irrigation for their crops. The Celtic Druids, Chinese, and many North American indigenous cultures relied on a 13-moon calendar to plant, forage, and harvest medicine and food.

It might sound like superstition, but there has been some modern-day research done on the topic. Maria Thun, a biodynamic farmer, has tested planting by the moon cycles for years and claims that it does improve planting yield. Due to the lack of scientific research regarding the direct effect of lunar phases on plant physiology, much of the evidence comes from documentation performed by farmers and scientists that have repeated Thun’s methods and found similar outcomes. Of course, a successful garden does not require following the phases of the moon, lunar gardening is thought to facilitate positive results.

Over the course of the 29.5 day lunar cycle, the moonlight goes through fluctuation. For half of its cycle, between the New and Full moon, the Moon grows in illumination creating the Waxing period. Then, from the Full Moon to the New Moon it begins to decrease in illumination, creating the Waning period.

Waxing Moon the light of the moon

The general rule of thumb is to plant your annual fruits, vegetables, and flowers that bear above-ground crops like peppers, melons, and corn during the waxing of the Moon. From the New Moon to the Full Moon the light grows and the gravitational pull is strong. This is when the soil releases, energy draws upward, and the Earth exhales.

Waning Moon The dark of the moon

The general rule of thumb is to plant root crops like carrots and potatoes, along with perennials and transplants, during the waning of the Moon. From the Full Moon to the New Moon the light and gravitational pull decrease. This is when the soil absorbs, energy draws down, and the Earth inhales.

Moon Sowing

The ancient Greeks believed the New Moon was a time of fertility and rebirth because the moon and sun were joined together in the same part of the sky.

When the moon is New, or dark, it exerts a strong gravitational pull on the earth, and tides are high.  The groundwater level beneath the soil is lifted the same way tides are lifted, and in this gravitational pull, the roots of plants experience a growth spurt. From the New Moon to the Full Moon sap flow increases in the above-ground parts of plants. These are the most suitable phases for sowing and transplanting annuals and biennials.

The Waxing Crescent phase will appear just a few days after the New Moon. This phase provides fertile and wet soil conditions. Moonlight is increasing and the gravitational pull is at its strongest drawing water up, which aids in germination.

•   Sow/Plant: Plant above-ground bearing annual crops that produce their seeds outside of the fruit like lettuce, broccoli, celery, and grains. It is also a good time to plant annual grasses and green manures. *This is the second-best phase to sow or transplant fruiting annuals.
•   Tend: Graft, apply liquid fertilizers, mow, and prune foliage (to encourage growth).

During the first quarter, the sun and moon are at a right angle to Earth, causing a lower gravitational pull. But the moonlight is strong, creating healthy leaf development. The leaves grow at a faster rate than the roots, which set down strong legs during the first week of the lunar cycle. This allows the plant to “reach to the sky” during the progression to the full moon. Plants that grow well during this time are those with larger leaves such as squash, melons, and beans.

During the Waxing Gibbous phase (First Quarter to the Full Moon):

•   Sow/Plant: Plant annuals that produce above-ground – fruiting plants with “inside seeds,” like tomatoes, beans, grains, flowers. It’s also a good time to sow annual grasses and green manures *This is the second-best phase to sow or transplant leafy annuals.
•   Tend: Graft, apply liquid fertilizers, mow and prune foliage (to encourage growth).

– Traditional Iroquois saying

The moon has peaked. On the night of a Full Moon, it is time to rest, celebrate, and meditate. It’s also a good time to pick medicinal herbs and plants.

From the Full Moon to the New Moon the sap flow in plants becomes more concentrated in the root area and gradually slows through the Waning period reducing germination and regrowth.

During the Waning Gibbous phase (Full Moon to the Last Quarter), the gravitation pull is high, creating more moisture in the soil. Plant roots experience another growth spurt, while leaf growth remains relatively static. In the Waning period this is the best phase for sowing and planting:

•   Sow/Plant: Plant below ground root plants like beets, carrots, onions, and potatoes. It is also a good time to plant perennials, fruiting trees, bulbs, and transplants because of the active root growth. Just like root vegetables, perennials’ root systems have the ability to store carbohydrates and nutrients which is vital to their longevity.
•   Tend: Harvest all crops, take cuttings, divide plants, prune dormant plants, apply solid fertilizers, transplant, mow, and prune foliage (to hinder growth).

As the moon goes dark and gravitation pull falls away, plants experience a time of balanced rest, where the rate of growth slows in both roots and leaves. The last quarter is considered a resting and maintenance period. It is a time to avoid planting and focus on improving the soil, by weeding, mulching, making compost, and so on. 

Some say it is best not to partake in any garden chores during the last few days of the Last Quarter. The time right before a New Moon signifies the death of the old before the start of the new. 

During the Waning Crescent phase (Last Quarter to the New Moon), moonlight has decreased along with gravitational pull:

•   Barren Phase: Avoid sowing seeds.
•   Tend: Harvest and store crops, apply solid fertilizers, transplant, destroy weeds, prune foliage and mow lawns (to hinder growth).

We have completed a full moon cycle and are starting anew. On the night of a New Moon, it’s time to rest and set new seeds of intention for the next cycle.

To get a better sense of the Moon’s movement, this video is a great visual:

Moon Phase Animation by Phil Heart

APOGEE

MICROMOON

Apogee Summer Mood

The Apogee is the point where the Moon’s orbit is the furthest from the Earth. Author Maria Thun described it as, “When the Moon recedes from the Earth in the course of its monthly cycle, the effect on plant growth can in some ways be compared with that time of year when the Earth is furthest away from the Sun, i.e. midsummer; the tendency in the plant-world is then to run to seed, whereas the growth forces decrease. Thus the effect of the Moon’s apogee on the seed plants can still be comparatively beneficial. For the sowing of leaf crops, however, this time is definitely unfavorable. Carrots sown during these days easily become woody. The only plant to react positively to being planted at apogee is the potato.”

Perigee Winter Mood

The Perigee is the point where the Moon’s orbit is the closest to the Earth. This has a much different effect. It invokes a winter mood because the Moon’s water element inhibits the Sun’s relationship with the Earth. Sown seeds might germinate poorly or the crop itself might be negatively affected due to too much water manifested in the upper plant. This can be positive for leafy crops that thrive with a surplus of water. According to European traditions, any work with soil or plants on the day of the Perigee should be avoided as the Moon’s influence is too strong at this time.

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Moon gardens are created for their healing and relaxing ambiance enjoyed during the evening hours. To create a full sensory experience, the garden should be a combination of plants that emit a sweet aroma, attract nocturnal pollinators (like moths and bats), and illuminate under the night sky. Characteristics of moon gardens include plants that bloom at night, produce white flowers, release heavenly scents, or have silvery foliage.

Moon gardens do best in open areas that have maximum exposure to the night sky. Oftentimes, they are created near a deck, patio, porch, or large window where the sights, sounds, and smells can be easily enjoyed. Incorporating light-colored stone materials or using light clay planters (great for beginners or those with small spaces) accentuates the area. Water features make wonderful additions because of their soothing sound and ability to reflect the moonlight.

The following list contains a range of enchanting plants perfect for a moon garden, followed by a bloom time cheat sheet and Paul Sédir’s list of botanicals ruled by the moon. There are really no rules in creating a moon garden! If you find yourself overwhelmed by all of the options and don’t know where to start, try Botanical Interest’s Moon Garden Collection.

Night Boomers

Tuberose

Agave amica

Native to Mexico, Tuberose is a night bloomer with a heavenly scent. The plant is associated with attraction, lust, and obsession and is primarily used as a perfume ingredient. It’s believed the Aztecs used it to flavor chocolate, but the safety of that traditional use is unverified.

EVENING PRIMROSE

Oenothera biennis

Evening Primrose is linked to youth, young love, and feminity. It may be a small blossom, but in the past, it was considered a symbol of safety and protection. The Celts believed placing it on their doorstep would attract fairies to bless their home. The perennial grows no more than 10cm high and can flower from December through to May blooming only at night.

White Flowers

Indian Peace Pipe

Nicotiana sylvestris

The Indian Peace Pipe Nicotiana is a tall plant that grows very fragrant flowers from the late afternoon into the evening. They are unusual flower clusters that create a dramatic look in the garden, especially under the moonlight. Attracts pollinators, especially butterflies and hummingbirds!

White Lace Orlaya

Orlaya grandiflora

White Lace Orlaya, also known as “Minoan Lace” because of its origins in Crete, are hardy, elegant, and low-maintenance. They once grew in abundance in vineyards, olive groves, and other dry and warm spots. Their long flowering period lasts from early summer until the first frosts arrive.

Night Phlox

Zaluzianskya capensis

Native to South Africa, Night Phlox is a dense green carpet during the day. As the sun goes down, burgundy buds unfurl into snowflake pinwheels. The fragrance is delicious, and it lingers, perfuming the entire garden.

White Bleeding Heart

Lamprocapnos spectabilis

Native to Asia and North America, the White Bleeding Heart is considered a symbol of purity and innocence. The bleeding heart flower can represent spurned or rejected love. It can also symbolize feeling compassion and love for everything in creation.

Sweet Autumn Clematis

Lamprocapnos spectabilis

The Sweet Autumn Clematis, native to Japan, symbolizes the beauty of ingenuity or the trait of artifice. This is likely related to its wonderful and clever ability to climb around places such as walls as well as trellises. During the blooming season, it is covered with dainty, white, star-shaped blossoms that emit a sweet vanilla scent.

Silvery Foliage

Silver Sage

Artemisia cana

Silver Sage is native to western and central North America. Although the flowers are scentless, the plant smells like sweet turpentine after it rains. Smudging with Artemisia plants is an ecological alternative to overharvested sage.

Perennials

•  Coneflower ‘White Swan’ (hardy zones 3 – 8)
•  Evening Primrose (hardy zones 4 – 8)
•  Mock Orange Shrub (hardy zones 4 – 8)
•  Sweet Autumn Clematis (hardy zones 5 – 9)
•  White Bleeding Heart (hardy zones 3 – 9)

Lunar Plants

According to Paul Sédir, a French esotericist and notable author, these plants are ruled by the moon and could also be incorporated into a moon garden. This list is from his Concise Guide to Magical Plants. The plants have strong lunar ties to dream-time, mystery, feminity, and/or the element water:

•  Poppy, common (Papaver rhoeas)
•  Purslane (Portulaca oleracea)
•  Rampion (Phyteuma spicatum)
•  Reed (Arundo donax)
•  Sandalwood, white (Santalum album)
•  Tobacco (Nicotiana)
•  Turnip (Brassica rapa var. rapa)
•  Vetch (Vicia)
•  Walnut (Juglans)
•  Watercress (Nasturtium officinale)

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Get a head start on the growing season and enjoy an early harvest and greater yields by starting seeds indoors. In colder climates with shorter growing seasons, starting seeds indoors gives slow-growing crops like tomatoes and peppers a head start to reach maturity. In warmer climates, this practice gives the opportunity to get an extra round of crops before the heat of summer stifles growth. Another perk is the monetary savings. Purchasing seeds is more cost-effective than buying established plants from a nursery.

RELATED POST: How to Plan your Garden in the Winter

SUPPLIES QUICK LIST

*I use all of these products except for the grow rack (because I use a grow tent).

CLEAN SUPPLIES

Seed starting has its own phases of needs. From the germination period to graduating into the natural world, seedlings depend on the elements to survive and thrive. When we start seeds indoors it’s important to create an environment similar to the outside world.

Germination Phase

DARKNESS

Just as we emerge from the darkness and safety of the womb, seedlings emerge from the darkness and safety of soil. The contents of this dark environment are important to the success of the seed’s germination. Seed starting mix is a light, sterile, nutrient-less medium that allows seedlings to emerge at ease and expand their tiny roots.

WATER

Each plant will have different needs at different times so it’s suggested to keep each varietal to one tray. OR you can go about it like me and cut sections out to maximize space (see my photo under the LIGHT section to get an idea of what I mean). You can also purchase smaller cell trays like these: 10 Cell Trays or 6 Cell Trays.

WARMTH

Seedlings need warmth to speed up the chemical reactions that take place in the seed. Warmth also speeds up the making of new cells when the plant embryo is growing.

Most seeds germinate when the soil temperature is between 70°-85°F. Use a dial thermometer to check the soil temperature regularly.

Warming mats are used to gently warm the soil, promoting germination. They aren’t 100% necessary but they do facilitate faster germination. If you choose to use a grow tent you can achieve the same results and forego warming mats by relying on warmth generated from a heater. If you use warming mats you most likely won’t need to use a heater until the seeds sprout.

Once you see the first sprout it’s important to remove the warming mats immediately. Leaving mats on may spur rapid, lanky, weak growth or encourage fungal diseases at the soil level for seedlings past the germination phase.

AIR

Another vital necessity for seed germination is oxygen. This allows seeds to produce energy which takes place when the embryo breaks down its food store. This process is known as aerobic respiration – a series of reactions where energy is released from glucose, using oxygen.

Once a seed sprouts remove the cover immediately so air can circulate around seedlings, minimizing disease problems and allowing the plant to breathe.

Seedling Phase

LIGHT

Once a sprout is visible it’s crucial to get it under the light. Unfortunately, a south-facing sunny window alone won’t provide enough light for starting seeds indoors. There are a couple of things to keep in mind when using artificial lighting:

To prevent leggy seedlings make sure the distance from the top of the plant and light source is not too far but not too close. Too far and the seedlings will stretch trying to reach the light causing weak stems. Too close and the light can burn the plant. Instructions from your lighting supplier or a simple google search can help determine the amount of space needed.

Seedlings need 14-16 hours of light during the daytime, followed by 8-10 hours of darkness. A timer can make managing daylight and darkness easy. 

Choosing a grow light can be overwhelming but it doesn’t have to be. LED lights are generally more energy-efficient, cost more upfront, and emit more lumens. Some gardeners will still recommend T5 fluorescent lights for plants.

I’d say choose lights based on your growing space. It’s typically recommended to suspend LED lights significantly higher above plants than fluorescent lights, making them good for grow tents. T5 fluorescent lights can be kept only inches above plants making them more ideal for grow racks.

WARMTH

Now that the seed has sprouted it’s time to revisit warmth. Once germination occurs, the optimum growing temperature for the seedling is about 10° cooler than the optimum germination temperature.

Since the warming mats are no longer useful, I use a heater set outside the grow tent to manage the temperature inside. Maintain the optimal growing temperature until transplant day.

This digital thermometer is also great for keeping an eye on humidity levels. It’s important to lower the humidity level to 30-50% once they are past germination. Any humidity level over 60% could potentially damage the plant.

I had a mold problem one year after I neglected to create proper airflow and left the temperature too high. The humidity ended up surpassing 70%, yikes!

WATER

Once seedlings have sprouted, to encourage strong roots practice the bottom watering technique. Rather than watering from atop, water is poured into the bottom cell tray and the moisture wicks up through the drainage holes to growing roots. It wets the soil mass completely without dry pockets. After 30 minutes to an hour dump the remaining water so the cells don’t sit in it. A good indicator that the soil had its fill is when you start to see the water surface on top of the soil.

It’s recommended to bottom water in the morning or in the evening. The best water is either rainwater (*best* full of minerals and slightly acidic) or distilled water (the purest form).

This watering can with a bottlenose is perfect for for this practice.

WIND

To prevent disease and weak stems a fan acts as the wind does outside. The wind is a protector and strength-giver for seedlings. It circulates the air which inhibits mold from forming or spreading by moderating the temperature and humidity. The wind also encourages strong, sturdy stems – the foundation for an abundant harvest of flowers or fruit.

Not too long after sprouting set up a fan. Leave it on throughout the day to create a gentle breeze. The fan should be used up until hardening off beings or transplant day.

Vegetative
Growth Phase

NUTRIENTS

SPACE

Nothing hurts more than snipping perfectly healthy seedlings, but it has to be done. When seedlings are a little taller and established thinning is a must so the seedlings are not overcrowded and competing for water and nutrients. I like this fine pruning snips tool for thinning seedlings. Alternatively, you can just pinch the stem at the base. You do not want to pull seedlings out of the soil because this can damage the delicate roots of the seedlings you want to keep.

Eventually, many of your seedlings will need to move out of their cells and into a roomier container. Potting up describes the process of re-planting a seedling into a larger pot.

Trust your intuition when deciding when to pot up. If you think it’s time for a larger space you’re probably right. Does the plant look happy and healthy? How big is it? Has it slowed or has it been growing steadily?

Another good indicator is when the roots are just poking through the drainage holes at the bottom of the cell tray. If you wait too long though, the roots can become root-bound making the plant less likely to flourish.

It’s also important to pot up because as plant roots grow longer they drink more water and dry out more quickly.

Potting up also feeds the plants. We began with a seed-starting mix but now we are planting them in richer, heartier potting soil with more nutrients.

Transplant Phase

SUN

For a short period of time, a seedling needs to harden off to prepare for the outside world. It’s a process that involves gently weaning seedlings from their indoor environment and acclimating them to the harsh reality of the outdoors where they’ll experience the sun, wind, and weather.

Harden off plants two weeks prior to transplanting. Start in small increments. The first couple days leave the seedlings outside for 1-2 hours in the evening or morning when the sun is less brash, or in a shaded area. Increase time spent outside over the course of two weeks. Eventually, they will be able to spend all day outdoors making them ready for transplant.

EARTH

It’s finally time to integrate the seedlings into the natural world. Make sure your plants have at least 3 or 4 true leaves before you consider transplanting. Temperatures should be consistently warm and out of danger of frost.

To ease seedlings into the Earth spray a seaweed fertilizer on the roots to prevent transplant shock.

It’s also recommended to perform transplanting during the evening or on a cloudy day. This way, plants have a chance to settle in without being in direct sunlight.

Some plants like tomatoes can be buried deep (2/3 their height) because they have tiny bumps on the stems called adventitious roots. This means roots form on the upper part of the plant (the stem, leaves, branches) instead of the main root ball allowing them to grow a deeper and more extensive root system. This gives plants an increased ability to take in water and nutrients, resulting in a healthier plant that is less susceptible to drought, disease, and pests. This technique also allows them to have a sturdy structure – perfect for supporting hefty plants. 

FAQ

My seedlings are seemingly keeling over. They look like they were bent over at the soil line. What should I do?

This is most likely caused by damping off. It is a soil-borne fungus, caused by several different pathogens, that attack and kill seeds or seedlings before or after they germinate. It is most prevalent in wet and cool conditions. Unfortunately, there is not a cure, and the seeds won’t resprout. Start over with clean containers and sterile seed-starting mix. Allow the soil surface to dry out slightly between waterings, and place a fan in the room for good air circulation.

Fuzzy white growth or slimy green patches are forming on the surface of the soil, what should I do?

It’s most likely mold and algae growth. Although generally harmless to the seedling, they both indicate that the seed-starting mix is too wet. Allow it to dry out slightly between waterings and set up a fan to gently increase air circulation.

If white mold is growing on the plant, it’s most likely due to too much humidity. Create proper airflow and make sure the growing space is not too hot. Take action before it spreads and kills the plant. My mold issue got so bad I resorted to this fungicide which remedied the situation and killed the mold however some plants were so far gone it was too late. Below is a photo of the aftermath of a plant that didn’t survive the mold outbreak:

My seedlings have pale, stretched-out, weak stems. What should I do?

These are referred to as “leggy” seedlings often the result of inadequate light, both in intensity and duration. Leggy seedlings have weak stretched-out stems and typically are flopping over because they cannot hold themselves up. Make sure seedlings are getting 14-16 hours of light per day along with placing the light source at the appropriate height from the seedlings. Leggy plants can also result from too warm temperatures and overcrowding.

My seedlings have discolored leaves, what should I do?

If seedling foliage is pale green, yellowish-green, or has a purple cast to it, the seedlings are most likely in need of a nutrient boost. Begin lightly fertilizing seedlings when they have a couple of sets of true leaves. Use a diluted (half-strength) mixture for the first few weeks (follow the brand’s instructions). 

My seedlings have pale/white leaves, what should I do?

This is most likely the result of “sunburn.” Make sure your light source is the appropriate distance from the canopy of the plants.

My seedling’s leaves are curling, what should I do?

It could be because of too little or too much water – use a moisture meter to gauge water needs. It could also be a lack of nutrients or too much heat.

My seedling’s leaves are soft, turning yellow, and fading to pale green what should I do?

These symptoms together mean that your plant is overwatered. You could either repot the plant to remove soaked soil or let the soil dry out and water less. Usually, lower leaves drop first, although the whole plant may be affected.

A seed sprouted but none of the other seeds in the cell tray have sprouted, should I wait to turn off the warming mats?

You’ll want to get the tray under the light and take the greenhouse cover off as soon as you see the first sprout regardless of the status of the other cells of that variety. Those other seeds will continue to germinate even if you remove the warming mat and humidity dome.

Happy sowing!

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Olla irrigation is a time, energy, and water-saving system for the garden that dates back thousands of years. Ollas were used during a time when watering meant hauling water in vessels. Anthropologists have been digging up unglazed clay pots in long-forgotten ancient garden sites, from China to South America. Ollas were a solution to many water issues in early civilization and they continue to be a beneficial irrigation system anyone can use.

Benefits of
Olla Irrigation

•  Water conservation. They save between 50%-70% in water use.
•  Inexpensive. You don’t need to buy a fancy irrigation system.
•  Time-saving. Because ollas seep water as needed you can go days before having to refill them. This means they are perfect for vacations!
•  Low-Tech. Again, no need for a fancy system and they are easy to use.
•  Environmentally-friendly. Ollas are made of clay.
•  Variety of sizes. Ollas can be used in the ground, raised beds, or even large pots because they come in all sorts of sizes.
•  Healthier plants. Roots get slow, even watering which results in a healthier, happier plant! Also, the risk of fungal issues on foliage is significantly reduced.
•  Prevents soil compaction. The roots get watered instead of the surface of the soil.
•  Reduced weed growth. The longer the surface of the soil stays dry the fewer weeds will develop.
•  Reusable. Ollas can be reused every year. If there is mineral build up they can be cleaned with a diluted 1:1 vinegar and water solution.

* In climates with deep freezes, ollas risk cracking in the winter. It’s best to remove them in the fall and store them in a dry place.

How Olla
Irrigation Works

The permeable walls of the olla allow for water to dissipate into the soil as needed. The pores of clay pots are so small that water does not freely flow out of the pot, but rather a suction force is created by soil moisture tension as well as plant roots. If the soil is dry, the water will be “pulled” out and released faster. If there is a saturating rainfall the water will remain in the olla until the surrounding soil dries. Therefore, olla irrigation is extremely water efficient and prevents excessive evaporation, overwatering, and runoff.

The roots of plants eventually grow toward and around the olla, allowing for even and consistent watering. This reduces the amount of stress they endure enabling them to live and produce longer. Watering this way promotes dense root growth which facilitates more efficient nutrient and water uptake.

Homemade Ollas
using Terracotta Pots

Original ollas were bulbous vessels with narrow necks, but unglazed terracotta pots will work just as well! This is a simple low-tech adaptation.

Step 1: Plug the Drainage Hole

Here are four ways you can plug the drainage hole of a terracotta pot. Starting with my number one recommendation, beeswax:

BEESWAX

Although a little time-consuming and messy, I would have to say that beeswax has been my most successful non-permanent way to plug the drainage holes in terracotta pots. It’s easy to remove causing no damage if you decide to revert the pot back to a planter. Not to mention it’s the most earth-friendly option. Make sure your pot is dry before pouring the beeswax.

NO-TOX PUTTY

This is a faster method. Use non-toxic putty to close the drainage hole. Apply a layer to the bottom and the inside. If you go this route, make sure the pot is dry before applying the putty.

PLUG / CORK

This is the quickest way to plug the hole. The trickiest part of this method is finding plugs or corks that are the right size.

CEMENT

For a permanent but foolproof method use cement. Create your own mixture with a cement kit and pour a 1/2″ layer into the bottom of the pot. I wanted the option to revert my pots back to planters so I did not go down this route, but I have seen this work great for others!

Step 2: Bury the Pot

Dig a hole and bury the pot up until you meet the beginning of the rim.

Step 3: Plant and Fill

Plant seeds or transplants 4-12″ from the pot. For the first few weeks after planting it’s best to hand-water the plants while the roots grow toward the water source. Once the plants are established you can rely entirely on the ollas to do their job.

Step 4: Cover the Pot

If you leave the pot uncovered it can become a breeding ground for mosquitos. On top of that, water will easily evaporate. Use a saucer that fits snug over the opening. You could attach an exterior knob to the center of the saucer if you’d like a handle to easily remove the lid.

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The crops of corn, beans, and squash are known as the Three Sisters, an agricultural method of the indigenous peoples of Turtle Island (North America). For centuries these three crops have been the center of Native American traditions. It is one of North America’s oldest forms of companion planting where each plant provides a service. Corn is the leader and supplies a strong, tall structure for beans. Beans are the givers that provide nitrogen for the other plants. Squash is the protector with its big leaves that shade the soil and deter pests. The traditional three sisters garden is planted without tilling or plowing on small mounds that are fertilized with fish.

Illustration by George Kuepper.

Many tribes believe the Great Spirit handed corn, beans, and squash down to the people as special gifts assuring survival. The three crops were considered to be protected by the spirits of the Three Sisters, collectively called the De-o-ha-ko, meaning “our sustainers” or those who support us.

Before humans began practicing agriculture about 12,000 years ago, beans, squash, and teosinte (a Mexican grass considered to be one of the parent plants of modern corn) grew together in the wild near Oaxaca, Mexico. Over the span of 5,000 years as indigenous people transitioned from a hunter-gatherer culture to an agricultural culture they slowly abandoned their nomadic lifestyle and domesticated these wild plants for a more stable food supply.

Squash

Corn, beans, and squash that grow together create a polyculture because of their biological diversity. Each plant utilizes different nutrients in the soil and then returns those nutrients to the soil as they decompose. These three crops have root systems that vary in size and depth, which helps to break up the soil. Because each crop is a different height, they’re each able to capture available light from various angles. Diversity also provides protection from devastation. One pest or disease won’t wipe out an entire field making some sort of harvest nearly guaranteed.

Corn

Teosinte is the likely wild progenitor of corn. About 9,000 years ago, the Mayan people turned this impenetrable 12-kernel seed-headed grass into an edible and adaptable crop.

A three sisters garden is basically three stacks of plants that fill a designated space. The upright element is traditionally corn, but sunflowers or amaranth are alternatives. Corn should be planted in late May when the ground has warmed, chances of frost have passed, and nighttime temperatures reach 55°F. Plant 2-3 seeds a foot apart in rows 2-3 feet wide.

Haudenosaunee tradition holds that planting begins when the leaves of a dogwood are the size of a squirrel’s ear. It’s important that corn is planted 2-3 weeks before beans.

Beans

Historically, beans enter the picture a little later sometime after 1000 a.d. Ethnobiologists believe that beans were adopted by Native American tribes long after they became familiar with corn and squash. Traditionally, the beans in a three sisters garden were the kind meant to be dried and stored for later use, but any “pole” bean (vine-type) variety will work. Modern “bush” beans are incapable of climbing cornstalks.

Pole beans should be planted when corn is about 6″ to a foot tall because they will explode with growth. Plant 2-3 seeds about 4″ from the corn stalk. As they climb, the corn will provide support for the beans and in return, the beans will help strengthen each corn grouping from strong winds by weaving and connecting them together as they grow. Legumes enhance the availability of a key nutrient in the soil – nitrogen. They help make nitrogen available by cultivating beneficial bacteria, Rhizobia, that pull nitrogen from the air and convert it to a form that plants can use. This process is called nitrogen fixation. After the bean plant dies, all the fixed nitrogen stored inside becomes available to other plants. Leave these bean plants as mulch or mix them into the soil after the harvest is over so they can give next season’s crops a great nitrogen boost!

Squash

Squash was actually the first of the trio to be domesticated, about 10,000 years ago. It was originally grown for its hard rind that made great bowls and utensils. The flesh was bitter, but indigenous people eventually bred squash for better flavor and texture.

While the pole beans are being planted squash can also be planted around the corn stalks. The squash must be a winter variety – butternut, acorn, etc – because summer squash grows in single clumps rather than as spreading ground cover. Melons and pumpkins would work for this layer too. Because these plants spread they create a living mulch that keeps the soil temperature regulated, retains moisture, and suppresses weeds. The prickly hairs on the leaves also help reduce predation in the garden from rodents and other pests. Be sure to step carefully in the garden because the beans and corn will mature first. Harvest the squash as they ripen.

NUTRITION

The three plants are also a nutrition powerhouse when combined. Corn contains carbohydrates that provide a rich source of energy. Corn and beans together create a complete protein. Beans contain fiber to help balance the release of sugar into the bloodstream, keeping us fuller for longer. Squash is full of vitamins and minerals that both corn and beans lack.

Fourth Sisters

Sunflowers

If sunflowers are incorporated as a fourth sister it is recommended that they are planted along the northern edge of a garden, as not to shade the crops. Also keep in mind beans and sunflowers do not grow well together.

Amaranth

Amaranth (pig weeds) can be planted between the rows of corn at the same time. The seed of the plant is rich in gluten-free protein, calcium, vitamins, and other essential building blocks. Besides attracting pollinators, amaranth is great at providing shade during the hottest part of the season. Their strong stalks are also excellent for beans to climb on.

Other sisters could be bee balm, nasturtiums, and basil that provide their own benefits including attracting pollinators.

Amaranth

Companion planting is a great way to promote crop productivity by harnessing natural synergies in the environment. This strategy promotes healthier ecosystems by reducing the need for synthetic fertilizers and pesticides.

By planting a three sisters garden we can honor the ancient farmers of Mesoamerica.

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Applied since ancient times, Hügelkultur creates the richest and most fertile growing conditions. It is basically wood and organic matter that has been covered with soil and left alone to rot. Raised garden beds filled with Hügelkultur are loaded with organic material, nutrients, air pockets for roots, warm soil that prolongs growing seasons, and so much more!

The concept comes from the ancient Eastern European and Germanic peoples who mastered vertical gardening by using mounds made of decaying wood and plant debris. The same principles can be applied when filling modern-day raised garden beds. It’s an earth-friendly and cost-effective method. Most of the materials were gathered from our community recycling center that offers wood, mulch, finished compost, and other organic matter at no cost.

A mound of woodchip mulch at our local compost center.

Similar to a compost pile, the decaying biomass inside hügelbeds heats up and warms the soil.  This can extend the season by allowing earlier planting in the spring and longer growing in the fall. The image below by Paul Wheaton depicts a hügelkultur mound.

Image by Paul Wheaton via richsoil.com

Layer 1: Woodsy Materials

This layer is perfect for recycling tree waste. Incorporating logs, fallen branches, and twigs into a hügelbed is an efficient way to compost all that valuable wood. The woodsy layer will break down and release carbon, the main component of soil organic matter, which helps give soil its water-retention capacity, structure, and fertility.

CARDBOARD

Any cardboard that does not have a wax coating, shiny finish, tape (except brown paper tape with strings), or heavy print is considered clean and okay to use. After removing the tape and labels from cardboard it can be laid down to provide a compostable material for the garden that suppresses pesky weeds and grasses and develops a bumper crop of earthworms.

LOGS, BRANCHES, TWIGS, WOODCHIPS

Decomposing wood becomes soft, porous, and spongy. This spongy wood absorbs moisture that basically becomes a secret water reservoir.  Plants seek out moisture and sink their roots into these half-rotten logs. The rotting wood also hosts beneficial fungi, bacteria, insects, worms, and microbial growth that create nutrients plants can use. Avoid woods known to be rot-resistant like cedar or black locust. Also, avoid black walnut because it releases a chemical into the soil that is toxic to some plants.

You can inoculate wood with mushroom spores to add even further to your food yield.

Layer 2: Green Waste

During the first year of a hügelbed, the decaying wood will rob nitrogen from the soil.  The fresher the wood, the more nitrogen it will require as it breaks down. Eventually, it will put nitrogen back into the soil but in the meantime, a layer of green nitrogen-rich materials is needed. Instead of putting leaves and grass clippings in bags that are bound for the curb, fill them on top and around the wood layer to speed its decomposition process. Kitchen scraps like eggshells, coffee grounds, banana peels, or any food that you would add to your home compost can be added too.

Layer 3: Soil Mixture

TOPSOIL, COMPOST, AGED MANURE

The ideal mix for soil is 50% topsoil, 30% compost, and 20% aged manure. Topsoil is the top layer of any soil above the bedrock and is the most nutrient-rich layer of naturally occurring soil. Topsoil does contain organic matter but not as much as plants need. Compost contains nutrients that act as natural fertilizers. It’s great for improving soil structure, reducing compaction, and improving water retention while simultaneously improving drainage. Aged manure conditions and enriches the soil with nutrients and increases soil carbon, which is an important source of energy that makes nutrients available to plants.

SOIL AMENDMENTS

Amendments like coconut coir (aerates soil + retains moisture), worm castings (enriches soil + attracts worms), azomite (adds minerals + trace elements), and mycorrhizal fungi (feeds the roots of plants) are great additions too.

Layer 4: Plant

The garden bed is full and ready for all your wonderful seedlings! As stated previously, the first year of breakdown means the wood and fungi steal much of the nitrogen out of the surrounding environment. Planting crops that add nitrogen to the soil like legumes or species with minimal nitrogen requirements is advised unless there is plenty of green waste material on top of the woody layer. After the wood absorbs nitrogen it will start to break down and give nitrogen back in the process. The end result is a bed of nutrient-rich, fertile soil!

Layer 5: Mulch

Mulch is a top dressing or soil covering that protects soil, improves soil health, retains moisture, prevents evaporation, suppresses weeds, and adds additional organic material. There are a number of organic mulches including wood chips, straw, grass clippings, and shredded leaves. 

WOOD CHIPS

A common misconception is that fresh wood chips tie up nitrogen during their decomposition. While nitrogen depletion will be a temporary problem it will only be right at the soil surface (one reason wood chip mulches are efficient at suppressing seed germination). As woodchips break down, they slowly provide small amounts of nutrients and increase the organic matter of the soil. Check out Chipdrop for free woodchip mulch deliveries!

STRAW

Straw is one of the best mulch materials because it is clean, light, and breaks down relatively easily yet slow to decompose. It doesn’t tie up nitrogen or other soil amendments either. Be careful not to confuse straw with hay, which can contain seeds that can sprout weeds. Barley, wheat, and rice straws are great options.

GRASS CLIPPINGS & SHREDDED LEAVES

Using fresh grass clippings as mulch can add back up to 25% of the nutrients that growth removes from the soil. Shredded leaves will also help enrich the soil. Keep in mind, wet grass clippings and unshredded leaves can mat down blocking air and water from penetrating the ground.

RELATED POST: How to Build a Raised Garden Bed

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Raised garden beds allow a garden to be planted almost anywhere! The concept dates back to ancient cultures in 300 b.c. Pre-Hispanic cultures in South America from Columbia to Bolivia employed the raised bed concept waru waru to prevent erosion and improve irrigation. Other methods like hügelkultur have been used for thousands of years and also apply the concepts of raised bed gardening. In medieval times beds were edged with wattle fences. Fast forward 500 years, the Parisian market gardeners of the 18th Century built up their plots using horse manure that was abundant during a pre-motor vehicle city. Raised beds have always been a popular method of gardening because of their manageability.

RELATED POST: How to Fill a Raised Garden Bed Using the Hügelkulture Technique

UNTREATED WOOD

Pressure treated lumber is not any stronger than untreated lumber. While pressure treated lumber will resist the elements and rot better due to added chemical preservatives it comes with many concerns. Wood treated with CCA or chromated copper arsenate can leach arsenic, a very toxic compound. Plants growing in the garden bed could potentially take up the chemicals making it unsafe. Untreated wood is the safer, more environmentally friendly choice.

SOFTWOODS

Pine (southern yellow pine/common board), Douglas fir, spruce, and juniper. These softwoods are cost-effective options, but not resistant to rot. They will need to be repaired or replaced within 3-7 years depending on climate.

HARDWOODS

Cedar and redwood are the best choices of wood for garden beds. These are durable, naturally resistant to moisture, rot, and termites. They are known to last 10-20 years. Oak, cypress, teak, beech, hemlock, and walnut are other long-lasting hardwood options. Hardwoods are a long-term investment.

HEARTWOOD

For the best of the best choose the heartwood of the hardwoods mentioned. It’s the most durable and long-lasting lumbar. Although even more expensive, they could last over 20 years! Heartwood is the densest because it comes from the center of the tree. It’s the dead wood that doesn’t feature channels for xylem and phloem, making it more resistant to water and infestation compared to sapwood. 

NOT RECOMMENDED

•  Railroad ties. The wood is preserved by soaking it in creosote, which is composed of over 300 chemicals, many of them toxic and persistent in soil. Exposure to creosote has been shown to have adverse health effects.
•  Reclaimed wood. Only use reclaimed wood if you know the type and if it has been treated or not.

Dimensions

Supports

⋆ Stainless steel metal brackets are a good choice too. You can get straight brackets for the mid/quarter points and corner brackets for the intersections.

ANCHORS

To further the support of the garden bed you can create anchors and dig them into the ground. Alternatively, you could dig the entire bed a few inches into the ground. Personally, I don’t find anchors necessary.

Placement

Weeds & Critters

HARDWARE CLOTH

If you have underground critters like gophers, moles, and voles I would recommend stainless steel 1/4″ hardware fabric to keep them from burrowing into your bed. 1/4″ will keep critters out but still allow root systems to travel deeper.

Tools

SCREWS

Screws are what is going to hold the bed together, so it’s an important topic! When deciding what size screws to get the general rule of thumb is that the screw should enter at least half the thickness of the bottom material.

You’ll want to use exterior deck screws because they are made to endure the elements. Some exterior deck screws are not suitable for cedar or redwoods. Coated galvanized screws are susceptible to the tannic acids in these hardwoods.

Stainless steel screws are my #1 recommendation for garden beds because they are not only an excellent environmental choice but also an excellent economical choice. They can be used on any wood including cedar and redwood. The screws are not coated with toxic materials and do not produce toxic off-gas or leach when they are in the wood. Plus, stainless steel is naturally rust, tarnish, and corrosion-resistant.

⋆ Screws with star (torx) and square (robertson) drive recesses resist stripping better than Phillips-drive recesses.

When I built my three cedar compost structures I missed the fine print that the exterior screws I bought were not meant for cedar or redwood. I ended up having to replace 250 screws… learn from my mistake!

OTHER TOOLS

•  Power drill – you could also use a hammer and nails, but screws outperform nails because they have more tensile strength. Tensile strength refers to a material’s ability to resist breaking under pressure.
•  Miter saw (preferred) or circular saw – an alternative is having the lumber supplier cut the wood for you!
•  Clamps – to hold the wood together while screwing.
•  Saw Horses (or any flat surface)
•  Measuring & Marking Tools – t-square, measuring tape, and a pencil.
•  Staple Gun and SS Staples if you choose to add hardware and/or weed cloth.
•  Safety Goggles for protection.

Build a Low-Cost
Raised Cedar Wood Bed

Using cedar fencing and rough cedar to make a garden bed is actually less expensive than using pine! Cedar fencing is only 5/8″ thick but as long as the bed is supported this rot-resistant wood will last a long time. Rough cedar (used for the supports) is also a less expensive option because it is wood that hasn’t been planed.

Cedar fencing is 5.5″ wide and 6′ long with dog ears on one end. If you are not fond of the dog ears they can be removed by cutting an inch off, but I don’t mind them. Below, I am creating a 3’x6′ long bed that is 27.5″ tall using seventeen cedar fence boards and two 2″ 4×8′ rough cedar boards. I wanted something easy on the back so this bed is a little over 2′ tall. The shorter the bed, the fewer boards you will need to purchase.

Step by Step

1

Cut the Wood

To keep it simple I am working with the dimensions already available at the lumbar yard so I don’t need to make any cuts for the long sides. For the short sides, I am cutting five boards in half making them 3′ each. For the supports, I cut the rough cedar boards into pieces that are the height of the bed. In this case, each one is 27.5″ long – the exact height of five cedar fencing boards stacked on top of each other. Now I have six support beams. One for each corner and both midpoints.

2

Create the Sides

3

Create the Front & BACK

Now that the short sides are made stand them sideways across from each other and lay the long boards across. Because these fencing boards can be a bit wonky I flip and swap pieces until they align adequately before I secure them. Once they are aligned they can be secured with screws. Repeat this for the backside.

4

Affix the Midpoint Supports

To prevent bowing (especially because cedar fencing is only 5/8″ thick) add a support beam at the midpoint of the front and back (long sides).

5

Secure the Hardware Cloth

RELATED POST: How to Fill a Raised Garden Bed Using the Hügelkulture Technique

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Photo by Tolga Ahmetler via Unsplash.

Winter is a time of reflection, imagination, and regeneration so the Earth can be rebirthed in the spring. Thus, winter is a time for garden planning. Although this might sound too early, it is essential if you are going to start from seed!

1. Read + Reflect

During this time of regeneration, we can reflect on the past and let the ideas of our future cultivate in our minds. Read about plant varieties and decide which ones you would like to grow in the upcoming season. Your growing zone (see photo below), spacing, maturity size, sun and water requirements are all things to consider. If you haven’t already, request a seed catalog from your preferred seed supplier or peruse their online stock.

USDA Growing Zones

2. Set Intentions

Our imaginations are at work making it a great time to commit or re-commit to your goals. Think about your vision for next season’s garden. Maybe you want to start composting or focus on attracting more wildlife. Maybe you want to create a cut garden or an irrigation system. Maybe you simply want to plant more tomatoes. Conceptualize your garden, or make a rough draft, so you can determine what you have space for and which seeds you will need to purchase.

3. Gather Seeds

Purchase your seeds by early February to ensure you are prepared to start seeds indoors by mid-February or early March. Botanical Interests and  Native Seeds are my favorite seed suppliers. This is also a good time to order any seed starting supplies you might need like cell trays, seed markers, warming mats, and grow lights. Most of these items can be reused year after year.

RELATED POST: Organic Garden Supply Guide

4. Plan the Garden

Although winter feels like it is still going strong, the season of awakening is the halfway point between the Winter Solstice and Spring Equinox. It symbolizes the promise of spring’s return and the passing of winter as the earth prepares to burst forth in productivity. For centuries growers in the northern hemisphere understood the month of February to mark a significant shift in day length as it relates to plant growth. The growing light brings new beginnings, fresh vision, and sowing new seeds (quite literally!).

While we are in this fresh visionary state we can put forth our plans for the garden in early February. When planning, consider companion planting to make the most of your space. Incorporating certain herbs, flowers, cover crops, and other plants can have a myriad of benefits including pest and disease resistance, weed control, and soil preservation. The rise of monoculture suppressed the concepts of companion planting, but these techniques have been accomplished for centuries by indigenous communities who understand the interrelationship of all species.

RELATED POST: The Art and Secrets of Companion Planting

Houseplant: Fittonia (nerve plant)

5. Schedule Sowing Dates

In early February schedule your sowing dates. Determine which seeds need to be started indoors and which seeds can be sown outdoors.

To create a seed starting schedule you need to know the last frost date of your area. This can be found with a simple google search. The back of the seed packet should state the recommended start date. Count however many weeks backward from your last frost date and mark your schedule. The packet should also give appropriate information on how to start the seeds. Some seeds need to go through scarification (cracking the hard outer shell) or stratification (fooled into believing they’ve been through winter) before planting.

By mid-late February or early-mid March (this depends on your last frost date) it is time to start sowing your seeds. Your plans are coming to life, as is the land that has laid dormant for months. Savor this time as you witness the promise of light and rebirth ensue.

Seed Starting Guide Coming Soon!

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Unique and useful gift ideas for the gardener, plant lover, or modern homesteader!

Affiliate Disclaimer: this website is supported by its audience and contains affiliate links. An affiliate link means I may earn advertising or referral fees at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase through these links. (read more)

7. GARDEN SCISSORS

A portable, hassel-free hose reel that’s made in the USA, easy to move, compact, comes with flat-proof tires and a 10 year warranty.

FIND IT HERE

10. FARMHOUSE METAL HERB DRYING RACK

Reminiscent of old farmhouse kitchens, this hanging metal herb drying rack is perfect for displaying dried herbs and flowers or other decorative elements.

FIND IT HERE

11. FABRIC GROW BAGS

Garden pots with handles for easy moving. The fabric allows air flow to roots for healthier plants, the roots stay cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. These can be used with drip systems, rain gutter grow systems, and hydroponic flood trays. They are made from hemp, natural fibers, and recycled water bottles.

FIND IT HERE

13. Handmade Clay Birdhouse

Handcrafted in Ghana by Matamiss, this hand-thrown clay birdhouse features a creamy white exterior glaze with a rope hanger. 

FIND IT HERE

17. LADY BUG CASTLE

Handmade rubber boots can withstand even the hardest torrential downpour. They are made out of the finest single-estate 100% natural rubber from sustainable harvests. This pure, natural rubber is mixed with their own secret recipe, making the fundamental composition 80% pure, natural rubber and 20% secret recipe. Entirely PVC-free, the boots contain no animal by-products. 

FIND IT HERE

Basket Leather Leaf Earrings

25. HANDCRAFTED TERRACOTTA DOG PLANTER

26. SUCCULENT STUDIO SUBSCRIPTION BOX

Every month, subscribers receive two different eight-week-old succulents to their doorstep for around $10 plus a $6.50 flat-rate shipping fee. Each delivery comes with plant identification cards and care instructions. All succulents are delivered in biodegradable pots that can be planted right into the soil.

FIND IT HERE

27. PROPGATION STATION

An ETSY best seller, this propogation station is a vintage wooden stand with a glass planter bulb made of top quality borosilicate glass.

FIND IT HERE

32. HAMMOCK CHAIR

36. FOOD DEHYDRATOR

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Companion planting is the art of growing plants in the same proximity because of their ability to enhance or compliment eachother. The idea is to avoid large monocultures (for example, a large space of corn in one section), and instead focuses on polycultures that mimic the way plants would grow in nature.

Companion
Planting Guide

Select a plant category below to find out which plants like eachother, and which plants don’t. 

Companion Planting
Combination Ideas

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